- What's a Long EZ anyway?
- Necessary skills
- Composites for dummies!
- Heated epoxy box
- Epoxy 101 - How it's used
- Epoxy 102 - Un-Gelling the hardener
- Epoxy 103 - Why bother testing the epoxy pump?
- Epoxy 104 - Thermal runaway
- Removing hard to grab peel-ply
- Spruce goose
- Wet-micro foam bond demo
- Rough River 2012
- Rough River 2016
- Heated Pitot tube
- Voltage regulator - part 1
- Voltage regulator - part 2
- Voltage regulator - part 3
- Voltage regulator - part 4
- Voltage regulator (aka Pitot power) - part 5
- Voltage regulator (aka Pitot power) - part 6
- Retractable heated Pitot tube - part 1
- Retractable heated Pitot tube - part 2
- Anodizing - part 1 - Setting up shop
- Anodizing - part 2 - Heating things up
- Anodizing - part 3 - Tying up a few loose ends
- Anodizing - part 4 - Partial success... or partial failure?
- Anodizing - part 5 - The sweet taste of success
- Anodizing - part 6 - Equipment improvements
- EZ shop trailer
- Foam cores
- My first solo in a Long EZ
- Wade's first flight in my Long EZ
- 360ยบ video
- EZ mailbox
- Sun & Fun 2019
- JT's miscellaneous updates
- Leaf blower
- Moving a LongEZ fuselage... solo.
- Grill Cart
Shop preparation
- Attic/doors insulation, electrical, lighting, heating/cooling
- Walls insulation
- Modified EAA standard worktable
- The BIG worktable
- Leveling the big table
- 200a circuit braker panel & new tool preview
- Large part storage
- Big Table extesions
- Band saw
- Drill press
- Lathe and vertical mill
- Lathe issues
- Fixing the lathe
- Tailstock DRO
- Tramming the vertical mill
- Mini-Mill's digital Z axis conversion
- Mini-Mill's X and Y axis digital conversion
- Mini-Mill's new back brace
- Aluminum sheet metal tools
- Mini-Mill's new belt drive
- Tig welding
- Ahp welding systems - 2014 Alpha TIG 200X
- Perma-Grit sanding hand tools
- Aluminum sheet metal tools
- Horizontal bandsaw
- 3D printer update
- CNC plasma cutter update #1 - Assembling the CNC table
- CNC plasma cutter update #2 - Adding a 220V 50A circuit
- CNC plasma cutter update #3 - "Will this dog hunt?"
- CNC plasma cutter update #4 - Instrument panel #4
- Compressor swap
- CNC plasma cutter update #5 - extended Y travel and Z axis
- Machining the ball-screws
- X axis stepper-motor mount
- Y axis stepper-motor mount
- Y axis spacer
- Ball-nut stop blocks
- Mounting the ball-screws
- Stepper-motor coupling
- Motion control system
- Stepper motors first test
- CNC for dummies - video series
- Solving more mechanical issues
- Backlash reduction and ball-screw inconsistency
- More Z axis components, more issues solved, and more tools
- The end of major construction on the Z axis, not!
- Working the bugs out of the Z axis
- Adjustable mill's head attachment
- xbox 360 controller
- Computer stand
- Fixing some minor annoyances
- Redefining the term… ugly
- A few more improvements
- Fixture plate
- X travel limit switches
- Pneumatic drawbar
- Digital Read Out (DRO) warning!
- Spindle light
- X, Y, and Z limit switches
- Limit switch covers
The plans
Ch 4 - Bulkheads
- Front seat - Getting started
- Front seat - Back
- Rear seat - Front
- Rear seat - Back
- Rear seat - Through holes
- Instrument panel - Design
- Instrument panel - Front
- Instrument panel - Rear
- Instrument panel - Cutting holes
- Instrument panel - Sharp edge removal
- F-22 - Design
- F-22 - Cutting the foam
- F-22 - F-22's doubler
- F-22 - Glassing the back
- F-22 - Glassing the front
- F-28 - Glassing the front
- F-28 - Glassing the back
- Firewall - Design
- Firewall - Glassing the rear
- Firewall - Glassing the front
- Firewall - Cutting the longeron holes
Ch 5 - Fuselage sides
- Landing gear mounts - First aluminum parts
- Landing gear mounts - Bushings
- Landing gear mounts - LMGA assemblies
- Landing gear mounts - Sanding brackets and drilling holes
- Landing gear mounts - More sanding, more drilling
- Landing gear mounts - Counterboring
- Landing gear mounts - Alodining
- Landing gear mounts - Bushing upgrade
- Side 1 - Foam board magic
- Side 2 - Glueing more foam together
- Shaping the fuselage sides, longerons
- Longerons contouring
- Left side - Glassing
- Left side - Air bubble in top longeron, lower longeron
- Left side - Rear longeron triangular stringer
- Left side - Foam filler
- Left side - Glassing the gear hard-point
- Left side - Trimming the gear hard-point
- Right side - Glassing
- Right side - Installing the top longeron
- Right side - Glassing the top longeron
- Right side - Proper positioning of LWX and LWY
- Right side - Lower longeron
- Right side - Rear longeron triangular stringer
- Right side - Glassing the gear hard-point
- Right side - Trimming the gear hard point
- Extending LWYs
- Drilling the gear bracket holes
- Foam removal method
- Landing gear brackets final installation
- Washer replacement - part 1
- Washer replacement - part 2
Ch 6 - Fuselage assembly
- First assembly test
- Initial fitting
- Fuselage alignment and taping
- Taping the front seat
- Taping the rear seat
- Taping the front side of the rear seat
- Instrument panel installation
- F-22 installation
- F-28 installation
- Landing gear bolt access hole
- Strakes openings placement
- Fuselage bottom
- Fuselage bottom - final carving
- Fuselage bottom - glassing
- Fuselage bottom - attaching to fuselage
- Taping the floor
Ch 7 - Fuselage exterior
- Templates and sanding block
- Trimming the fuselage bottom
- Trimming the fuselage top
- Trimming the top longeron
- In-foam wiring conduits
- Landing brake - locating
- Glassing the outer fuselage
- Landing brake - cutting and glassing the depression
- Brake time
- Glassing the inner brake surface
- Landing brake hell!
- Electric actuator
- Disaster recovery
- Longeron repair (left)
- Longeron repair (right)
Ch 8 - Rollover structure and seatbelts
- Creating and installing the hard points
- Making the roll over structure - longeron braces
- Rollover outer recesses
- Roll-bar fabrication in action
- Attaching the roll-bar
- Burying the nut-plates and restoring the fuselage outline
Ch 9 - Main gear and brakes
Ch 10 - Canard Construction
Ch 13 - Nose and nose gear
Ch 14 - Centersection spar
Ch 17 - Pitch and roll trim
- She's got legs...
- "Wrapping things up"
- The missing half inch...
- The straight tower of Pisa
- The other "missing half inch"
- Lower tabs
- Upper tabs
- Wheels, axles, and brakes
- Left leg toe-in final adjustment
- Wheel, brake, tire and tube
- Standing on her own two legs
- The original pedals
- Prototyping the pedals
- Shorter bracket
- Bracket testing
- Making all the little bits
- Pedals, pedals, pedals!
- Pedal base modification
- Pedal oops!
- Longer pedal bases
- General law of relativity
- Ending the pedal saga
- Flox doughnuts
- Disk brakes heat shields
- Cleveland wheel's main bearing race replacement
- Nose-wheel main bearing race replacement
- Roncz and canard cores
- Shear web
- Lift tabs and leading edges
- Canard extensions
- Bottom spar-cap
- Skinning the bottom
- Flipping the canard
- Trailing edge peel-ply removal
- Locating the inner elevator hinges
- PVC foam inserts
- Top spar-cap
- Antennas
- Top skin
Ch 11 - Elevators
Ch 12 - Canard installation
- Pinocchio
- Retraction system and NG-30 prep
- Glassing NG-30 inside out
- Test wiring the nose gear actuator
- Making NG-8 (and NG-5) the hard way
- Nose gear leg
- Attaching the nose frame to the fuselage
- Bulkheads
- Stashing the nose wheel
- Stashing the nose wheel for good
- Floxing the nose leg hinges
- Nose floor
- Nose right side panel
- Nose left side panel
- Standing tall
- Forward nose structure
- Making the "pointed end"
- The endless nose
- First in flight!
- Strut cover mod
- Fwd nose compartment - inner sidewalls
- Strut cover and bottom nose foam installation
- Nose cone shaping
- Glassing the nose bottom and sides
- Wheel well mod #1
- Strut outer cover
- Wheel well mod #2 & #3
- Wheel well mod #4 - nose gear doors
- Nose bumper
- Hinge box
- Nose bumper - take #2
- The jig
- The foam structure
- Understanding the layups of Step 4
- Prepping for Step 4
- Changing the layup schedule of Step 4 (slightly)
- Step 4 at last!
- Closing the box
- Shear-web preparation
- Shear-web
- Bottom spar-cap
- Top spar-cap
- Layup #6 prep
- Wrapping the spar
- LWAs and layup #7
- Closing up this case
Ch 15 - Firewall and Accessories
Ch 16 - Control System
Ch 18 - Canopy
Ch 19 - Wings and Ailerons
Ch 20 - Winglet and Rudder
Ch 21 - Wing Strakes - Baggage - Fuel Tanks - Fuel System
Ch 22 - Electrical/Avionics
- Panel upgrade
- Panel choice
- Panel design
- Face plate
- Back plate (aka Junction Box)
- General wiring and the junction box/plate
- Press to test circuit for the annunciator light
- Panel #2 changes
- Cutting into the plane and panel #3
- "Git her done!"
- Random thoughts on my GRT Mini/Garmin GNS-480 installation
- Roll servo installation
- Pitch servo installation
- Pitch servo flight test
- George is flying!
- CNC plasma cutter update & Instrument panel #4
- Passenger’s USB outlet
- Exterior lighting
- Interior lighting
- ADS-B... OUT
- Emergency Locator Transmitter
- Two small batteries or one big one?
- JT's improvements continue
- Panel #5 - design
- Faceplate
- Deslumpifier, wiring, and more.
- Oil pressure indications
- JT’s miscellaneous updates #2
- JT's miscellaneous updates #3
Ch 23 - Engine Installation
AMAZING Long EZ blog!! Thank you so much for your posts!! I just started my Long EZ build (currently finishing up Chapter 4). Is there a 'contact' page on here so we can bounce back some ideas? My email is listed on my blog page:
ReplyDeletewww.aryjglantz.com
Thanks again and keep up the good work!!
-Ary
Thank you Ary, I'll shoot you an email when I get back home.
DeleteHey Marco,
ReplyDeleteI'm looking at converting a mini mill from littlemachineshop.com to CNC (I'm also in theory building a Long-Ez, but unlike you I'm not making progress...) and I was wondering if you could, now that you've accumulated some experience with your machine, if you could summarize what you're happy about, what you wish you'd done differently, and if the machine's capabilities are generally filling your needs. It looks like I'm going to have similar applications, hopefully including making parts for the Long once I get time to work on it, so your thoughts about this would be helpful.
Thanks,
/Patrik
Hey Patrik, nice choice of airplane by the way.
DeleteFirst of all, while I am happy I CNC'ed my machine by myself, I would not do it again the same way and spend 6 months of my time machining parts to very tight tolerances, just to see it all “blow up” in my face occasionally in the form of endless problems.
I thought I would be saving money by making things myself, and it sure looked like it on paper, but I should just have bought a conversion kit, and get it done in a few days instead, which is what I did with my lathe conversion to CNC.
Let's look at what you'd need...
CNC Fusion makes a very good kit, look it up here http://www.cncfusion.com/minimill1.html. I would go with kit #5 ($655) since you have the Little Machine Shop minimill, and I’d also get the Pre-Loaded Ballnut Service ($33 x 3), and the Heli-Cal zero backlash couplings ($24 x 3).
This way you’d be out $825 plus shipping, let’s say $860. On top of that you need a few more things, check out my blog http://longezproject.blogspot.com/2013/11/cnc-mill-conversion-part-8.html. You can get a controller board like mine pre-made for around $600 (here’s an example http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gecko-G540-4-axis-cnc-stepper-motor-controller-CNC-Router-mill-conversion-/261521423614?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ce3e43cfe), or you could shop around and wire it yourself for a bit less.
Next you need 3 motors http://www.kelinginc.net/NEMA23Motor.html ($50 x 3), and a board for talking to the controller http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-MOTION-CONTROLLER-for-Mach3-UC100-/161360698449?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2591d8dc51 ($150)
You’ll also need some other stuff like limit switches, etc. (budget $100 at most).
Let see, you are around $1300, but you also need Mach3 ($180), perhaps a computer, and possibly CAD and CAM software. The software alone can go from $200 to $10000, but in a recent development you can get Fusion 360 for free (http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview), register it after 30 days as an enthusiast or small shop (less than $100K in revenue), and renew every year. Or register as a student or professor, and renew every 3 years.
So we are really talking about a minimum of around $1600, plus computer and software. When you consider the price of the mill and a small computer, you are going to be in the neighbor of $3000 easily, without tooling.
When I purchased my minimill I had no idea it would lead to CNC, or that it would be as much fun as it has. Knowing what I know now I would have bought the biggest mill I could afford, since the upgrade cost is not much different.
To be honest, this minimill has been perfectly capable of machining everything I threw at it so far, although you have to become creative at times on how to hold on to what you are trying to machine due to the small table size. As an example look at how I had to machine the brake pedal brackets. It took 6 repositioning to machine them, versus just 3 had the table been slightly larger. This increased time and frustration quite a bit, but it is what you have to deal with with a hobby level mill.
As minimills go, the Little Machine Shop one is the best of the bunch, so you are already ahead of me there. Give me a shout if you have more questions.
Ciao, Marco.
Thanks for that detailed response! It pretty much goes along with what I've been thinking, although I don't think I'll go the Mach3 route. I have some experience with the embedded motion controllers like grbl and TinyG, since I've used them for a cnc router, so I'll just hook it up that way, at least for a start. I'm not that worried about the electronics part since I have much more experience there than with the mechanics.
ReplyDeleteA larger table would probably be nice, but it looks like the cost, space needed, etc, start going up quickly and the marginal increase in capability sure won't be anything near going from no mill at all to a small one! I think the mini mill is a very reasonable compromise.
Thanks for mentioning the Fusion 360 alternative, by the way, I hadn't heard of that. I've been using Cubify Design (http://cubify.com/Products/design) which is a cut-down version of Geomagic Design for $199, to design some parts. I'm quite happy with it, it's very capable, but has the huge drawback that you can only export parts as STL files. While most CAM software seems to handle STL, it approximates everything with planar segments, so round shapes won't be preserved. I'm not sure how big a deal this will be in practice, since you can set the resolution. I guess I'll just try and see.
You are very welcome Patrik.
Delete