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This blog is for entertainment purposes only, and is not meant to teach you how to build anything. The author is not responsible for any accident, injury, or loss that occurs as a result of reading this blog. Read this blog at your own risk.

Thursday, February 28, 2013

"Tooling up" - Mill's X & Y axis


Mini-Mill's digital X and Y axis conversion

Manufacturing most of the metal parts for my airplane, implicitly meant accepting a longer building experience, this however didn’t mean that I couldn't improve my situation whenever I could.

One of the issue that was affecting my milling ability and precision was the Z axis backlash, this was effectively dealt with by installing a DRO (digital read out) on the mill column (see the conversion here). I have been very pleased with the outcome since the upgrade, and my machine is much more precise, faster, and easier to work with.

I have been considering doing the same thing to the X and Y axis for sometime, and I finally broke down and bought two remote display DROs.


micromark.com items #85290 & 85291


Having DROs on all axis will turn my mini-mill into a “Cadillac”, so to speak. I will be able to precisely locate every feature of a new part quickly, accurately, and with excellent repeatability. The small backlash present on both axis will be irrelevant from now on, since I will be reading actual table movement, rather than hand-crank turns.

As always, nothing is ever “bolt on” at this level, and some minor adaptation had to be devised since there were no guidelines on how to mount them. 

I found a good location for the X axis DRO behind the table, where I could keep it away from harm and below the table top. Instead of using the standoff brackets that came with the kit, I decided to mount it directly to the table, so I had to improvise my own mounts. This enabled me to save precious space, and not reduce the Y travel. I opened the sending unit, removed the circuit board, and drilled and counterbored two holes for 4 mm bolts, then with the unit in place, I drilled into the table to locate the matching holes. 


Sending unit disassembled

One hole will be enlarged, the other will be where the + sign is.

Holes drilled and counterbored (unit upside down)

Counterboring removed enough material to keep the head of the bolts flush

Slide testing the sending unit


Happy with the result, I tapped the holes.


Holes center-punched, drilled, and tapped. 


I had to also drill two holes on the DRO casing to allow me to tighten the bolts. I later put some tape over them to prevent chips and cutting fluid to get in it.


Back case drilled, and board reassembled.

This is how I will tighten the bolts

Sending unit in position.


The Y axis proved a little easier, and did not require me to take the table down again. I just drilled and tapped two holes on the mill base, and one on the side of the sliding table. I adapted one of the brackets supplied with the kit and was back in business.


Tapping the first hole for the Y axis

Rear Y axis hole

X and Y axis sending units mounted on the mill

Ops check... Good!

I need to find a better place for the displays


I know, the column is not a very good place to mount the DROs, since the mill head has to move up and down, so I made a bracket from a piece of scrap aluminum that came with my mill.


New "instrument panel"?

The red box is plastic, but the instrument panel is very light weight

Drilling and tapping a few more holes

VoilĂ ! 3 axis DRO mill!

Close up of the panel


I was able to route the wires away from all moving parts, including myself, and I feel pretty confident that they should be safe where they are.


Wiring DIY




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