Disclaimer

This blog is for entertainment purposes only, and is not meant to teach you how to build anything. The author is not responsible for any accident, injury, or loss that occurs as a result of reading this blog. Read this blog at your own risk.

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Ch. 3 - Education - Part 3

The last piece to be built in this chapter will be a bookend.
It is a piece that will bring together all the composite techniques employed thus far.
As usual we begin with the raw foam, except this time we will be using Urethane foam, instead of PVC foam.



Urethane foam is a very different animal. 
For one thing the color is a slimy yellow, as opposed to the light PVC blue, and the consistency is really strange. Where PVC foam is pretty tough and hard to sand, Urethane is brittle and very easy to shape, so much so that you can use one piece of Urethane foam to sand another. It’s pretty cool actually, but it will give rise to a lot of Urethane dust that you don’t want to breathe in, so a mask is necessary.



Another difference is that, while you can cut PVC with a homemade hot wire cutter, you don’t want to do that with Urethane, as it gives off poisonous gasses. 
After cutting the foam blocks, they are temporarily joined with nails.



Apply micro-slurry to the surfaces to be glassed, and dry-micro to the bigger holes and surface cracks, as well as where the pieces of foam meet.
In case you forgot, fiberglass doesn’t do corners well, so we apply a fillet of dry-micro to the inside corners, to smooth the transition from horizontal to vertical, thus avoiding the formation of air bubbles under the cloth. 



With the surfaces readied, I applied three layers of BID cut at a bias, and wet them with epoxy (one layer at a time).



After the fiberglass dried (typically the next day), I trimmed off the excess, and shaped the foam-back into a wedge.



Next, I marked the foam-back, and later removed the perimeter area, where a glass to glass bond will be made.



Because I was wearing gloves wet with epoxy, I did not take any more photos of the back side in progress. 
What I did is sculpt a central depression big enough to hold a photograph, slurried the whole back surface, dry-microed the hard corners around the perimeter, and any surface crack/holes, then laid the first two layers of glass, then my photograph, and finally the last layer of glass on top.



As you can see, the bottom is still unfinished. 



The next steps were to remove the nails, and shave the bottom foam cleanly off. Sand the bottom of the fiberglass to remove foam and dried up slurry, then create a flox corner (by removing back foam around the fiberglass perimeter, sanding the dried slurry off the fiberglass, and filling the channel with flox).
Lastly glassing three more plies to the base of the book end.
This is how it turned out after trimming when dried.












It’s the only fiberglass piece my wife will allow in the house.



Monday, November 14, 2011

Ch. 3 - Education - Part 2

The next project in the education chapter is designed to inspire confidence in the construction method, as the part should be able to support the builder's own weight (at least momentarily).  
This time, the piece would not be a flat sheet layup, but a tridimensional beam-like structure whose interior is made out of foam. 
You might recall discussing the fact that the foam is never the structural component. That is precisely the case in this instance, as the beam owes all of its strength to the fiberglass, and its shape.
Enough with the theory, let's cut some foam!

"Honey, if you are still looking for that knife... I swear I put it back!"


As I said previously, there aren't a lot of hi-tech tools involved in this, and a little smoothing of the surfaces with a sanding block is all that is required.

Smoothing the rough spots


This is what I am trying to achieve ...



... and this is how to cut the foam ...



Here we have the first practical application of wet micro, as I used some to glue two pieces of foam together.

Foam glued and marked, ready for shaping


Shaping the foam should be a simple task, but It is easy to go overboard trying to be too precise, where precision is not necessary.

Improvised sanding jig


The “layup schedule” (sequence and type of fiberglass to use) is a little more complex this time.





After cutting the multiple BID and UNI pieces of fiberglass to size, and laying the cloths in the order to be used, I whipped up some micro-slurry and some pure epoxy, and got busy.



The next day, after the epoxy dried up, I trimmed the part and sanded the sharp edges, then devised a very scientific test to check for strength.

Pull... up!  Pull... up!  Pull... up!


I will not disclose how much weight the beam was able to withstand, let’s just say it was probably more than it was designed for. 
To its testament, it held with no complaints, but eventually a karate kick finished it off, cracking it in half.
The second part of this story, and arguably the more rewarding one, is that I decided to fix the beam by using some kevlar and fiberglass. 
First, I sanded both the jagged edges (so the two halves would match), as well as everywhere the repair fiberglass would go, on the outside surface of the piece. 
Then I scooped about half inch of foam from the open ends of the beam, and sanded the micro off from under the exposed fiberglass.
Finally, I filled the empty cavities with flox, and loosely joined the two halves together.
I laid the patches from the smallest to the largest, keeping the kevlar on the inside, and waited another day for the repair to cure.

Notice the Dacron tape used to smooth the fiberglass ends (it will be removed when dry)


I mistakenly cut the kevlar along the fibers, instead of “at a bias” (45 degrees). Since cutting kevlar is a pain, I didn’t want to cut four more pieces of it, so I laid them at an angle instead, hoping the patch would be strong enough.




And in my book there’s only one way to find out.
Introducing: the New Test Stand!



How did it perform?
I’d say it passed the test with flying colors!

"Please, don't break."



Tuesday, November 08, 2011

Ch. 3 - Education - Part 1

What turned me to composite construction came a bit unexpectedly. 
After finishing my 2010 EAA sheet metal workshop, I was more convinced than ever about building my dream airplane, the RV-8A (which I still love). Problem was, money was tight as always (two kids in college), and I was finding it difficult to gather enough of it to buy the tools and the tail kit, without having a major impact on our cash flow.
While saving money for the RV, I decided to order the composite practice kit from Aircraft Spruce. I figured I had never really given composites a fair shake, and I would be learning techniques I could later use on the RV trim. 

What I had not planned on was enjoying the composite construction as much as I did; but what really sold me on it, turned out to be its incredible strength (more on that later).

Composites practice kit from Aircraft Spruce.



Kit content

With all the things I needed on hand, including my awesome assisting daughter, we embarked on our first construction project, a flat six-plies layup.


Trendy glasses



In this layup you only make use of bidirectional fiberglass (BID), with the fibers oriented along, and across, the length of the piece.





Actual construction manual drawing




It helps that she's a Chemical Engineer.


The whole point of this exercise is to learn to meter the amount of epoxy used. After trimming the cured piece to a 10” x 16” rectangle, its weight should fall between 10.5 and 12.5 oz. Anything heavier means too much epoxy, anything lighter, not enough of it.



Cured piece after a rough trim


10.06 ounces


As you can see my piece appears to be slightly on the dry side, but it turned out that I cut it slightly smaller, so I believe it still has the proper fiberglass/epoxy ratio, although on the low side of the spectrum (good thing).
So, now what?
Well, I thought it would be fun to destroy my very flexible test piece, by loading it to failure.
How does the biggest hammer in the shop sound? 
That’s what I thought!


This is the heaviest hammer I have



Well, that was underwhelming!

Let me find another one...






Wow, that didn’t make much of a difference, did it. 
Wait, I’ve got one more...

That's all the hammers I have

Damn! I’m all out of hammers. 
Let’s find something bigger. 
Ok, no more Mr. Nice Guy. How about a 25 lb grinder?






Nada!
Ok, this time we are going massive.
A 75 lb, 3 ton floor jack.


This thing is killing my back!



Die little fiberglass panel, die!


I had to screw the two pieces of lumber to the bottom board

Holy crap! 





I suppose when it’s not your time, it just isn’t.





My "better half" approves



By the way, after removing the weight, the piece went right back to its original shape.
How does sheet aluminum sound now?!